Bratwurst, open fires, gluhwein, no-one does Christmas markets like the Germans. Dortmund is one of the biggest in the country, with more than 300 stalls (open 17 th November – 23rd December, Mon-Sat 10am – 2pm , Sun noon - 9pm ). Dortmund also has the world's biggest Christmas tree. A Christmas tree of an amazing 45 meters (148 feet) and a base of 14 x 14 meters (46 x 46 feet) and a net weight of 30 tons (33 short tons) has stood here every year since 1996. The Christmas tree consists of 1,700 firs and carries 13,000 small lamps.

Christmas fairs are held in several parts of the Hungarian capital (1st – 24th December) , the main Christmas markets are on Vaci Utca (the main shopping street) and Vörösmarty ter, and offer porcelain and jewelry, plus hot spicy sausages and traditional Christmas cake. Activites include Hungarian folk dancing and carols. Don't miss the daily theatrical opening of the giant Advent calendar windows, on the façade of Café Gerbeaud, at 5pm – an unusual tradition.

According to legend, the first decorated Christmas tree originated in Riga , Latvia in 1510. There's a plaque where it once stood, Riga 's Christmas lighting at the end of November, outside its town hall is a much awaited event every year. Visit Dome Square (in the shadow of the cathedral) and browse for wicker and birch decorations, carvings, ornate candlesticks, pottery bells, gingerbread and steaming mulled wine, as stiltwalkers and jugglers entertain (22th-24th December). Beat the cold with piragi-Latvian mini pies, filled with smoked bacon and flavoured with caraway.

Poland 's most beautiful city is home to the country's most elaborate Christmas fair and you'll also find great value. Dominated by Wawel Royal Castle , this medieval gem holds a lively Christmas market in the old Town Hall Square. Pick up designer jewellery at stores such as Skarbiuc on Grodska, or at Galleria Bielak. Markets open up in many of the main squares on the 28th November and run until 7th January.

In the Czech Republic , the best known markets are on Wenceslas Square , the Old Town Square , Namesti Republiky & Havelske Trziste. All begin operating on November 25th and will end on January 6th. Daily hours are from 9:00 until 19:00 . Here visitors can pick up Czech items, including ornaments, puppets, jewelry, and candles, as well as "svarene vino" (hot wine).

Hamburg has several Christmas markets open every day. For unabashed nostalgia, the market aound the town hall is tops (from 22nd November to 23rd December, 10am – 9pm ). Cute, cottage-like stalls sell the cherry-picked best that old mitteleuropa has to offer: cinnamon and molasses cookies from Aachen , gingerbread from Nurenberg, pottery from Lausitz, decorations from Erzgebirge , woodcarvings from Tyrol , and so on.

BERLIN

Germany's capital ups the stakes with its WinterZauber Berlin 2005/2006. Among the more than 50 Christmas markets in Berlin and surroundings the Christmas market in Spandau as well as the Christmas market in Potsdam right on the outskirts of Berlin are particularly famous. Take a stroll through the themed market zones of the Kulturbrauerei and the Market of the Continents, situated at The ethnological Museum in Dahlem. Soak up the spice and style while sampling Berliner Bratwurst (sausage) and Potsdamer Platzchen (festive biscuits( as you browse the silverware, clothing and wood carvings from the skilled hands of Oberammergau carvers.

VALENCIA

Northern Europe may do Christmas with snow and sparkle, but a Spanish navidad has its charms. From mid December, Valenica's elegant, lamp lit parks are decked out in red poinsetta, and festive street markets all spring up. The best Christmas markets are around the Valencia Central Market and Mercado de Colon (hosts a more handmade crafts market) . There's also a Christmas funfair and a circus.

Winter wonderland comes to the famous Tivoli Gardens, where you can enjoy the giant funfair and shop from stalls laden with gifts and decorations. Take a break from shopping with some ice skating on the lake within the Gardens. For more serious shoppers, the stores along Stroget have stylish modern Scandinavian glassware, porcelain and silverware at surprisingly good prices. The annual arrival of glogg –spiced wine with almonds and raisins fortified with schnapps – in the snowy Danish capital makes for a cosy atmosphere.